Volume 1, Number 2 – September 1981

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template for the four pins per key, and it is then a simple matter to place these holes over the end two keys’ pins in a row and drill new keys in the space beyond, thus ensuring correct alignment. If the new keys are now taken and aligned with their respective holes, they should neatly latch into the support plate of the keyboard.

The new keys are positioned as follows (looking at the underside of the board ):

Two to the left of the top row of keys
One to the right of the second row
One at each end of the third row
One at the right end of the fourth row
Two at each end of the space bar

The last four keys are the most difficult to locate accurately. It should be noted that they are directly below the next row.

N.B. Early Nascom keyboards may have tracks which cross the area required by the new keys. These tracks must be re-routed by means of wire links to allow the drilling (or use this keyboard for spare keys and modify a more recent one). Later keyboards leave significant gaps in just the right places.

b) CUT

A steady hand and a very sharp knife are the requirements. Check twice before you make a cut. Make two about 1 mm apart in each track, then gently prise the between the cuts away from the board.

Remember ... each key has four pins, A B C D

Cut the track leaving each of the following locations:

“Newline”key, pin D(   )
“–”key, pin D(   )
“X”key, pin C(   )
“Z”key, pin C(   )
“K”key, pin C(   )
“L”key, pin C(   )
“Q”key, pin C(   )
“O”key, pin C(   )
“R”key, pin D(   )
“Z”key, pin A(   )
“W”key, pin B(   )

Tick off each operation in the space provided to avoid making any errors. The worst part of the whole job is now completed.

c) ADD

Try to keep the wiring neat and close to the board. A small quantity of adhesive spotted at odd points helps to hold wiring in place. Remember to sleeve

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